Even though it is the 2nd highest peak in the Cordilera Blanca, it’s only 114 meters lower than Huascaran Sur. the standard route has few problematical crevasses, and it’s not difficult the panoramic of the Cordillera Blanca offered by the North summit has an adventage over that provided by the south peak.
It is technically difficult, and each year conditions vary in accessing it, as in all the mountains of the Cordilera Blanca.
First Ascent: 2nd of September, 1908 by A. Peck, R. Taugwalder, G. zum Taugwald
ITINERARY
- Day 1: Huaraz (3,100 mts) - Mancos (2,528 mts) - Musho (3,050 mts) - Base camp Huascarán (4,200 mts).
- Day 2: Base camp Huascarán (4,200 mts) - Morrena camp Huascarán (4,850 mts).
- Day 3: Morrena camp Huascarán (4,850 mts) - one camp Huascarán (5,350 mts).
- Day 4: one camp Huascarán (5,350 mts) - two camp Huascarán (6,010 mts).
- Day 5: two camp Huascarán (6,010 mts) - Huascarán Norte Summit (6,665 mts) - two camp Huascarán (6,010 mts) one camp Huascarán (5,350 mts) - Morrena camp Huascarán (4,850 mts).
- Day 6: Morrena camp Huascarán (4,850 mts) - Musho (3,050 mts) - and come back to Huaraz.